When in the car, especially in quality initially, something does not work. Or closes or burns. Do not rush to find fault with the brand itself. In 90 percent of cases there is a human factor. The factor is usually a crookedly set signaling. Curved wizards. Or any kind of improvement. In the old Germans wiring done for ages. Isolation from Mercedes or Audi I use in new cars. And even twenty, she looks and works better. Who disassembled when either a plug from a Mercedes or Audi. (Bmw did not do long). He understands. What is quality. What you use in crafts of the modern automotive industry. This is not even a likeness called.
It was a pleasant sunny day. Not that did not foresee trouble. and we rushed out of town. After passing some time decided to buy ice cream. have stopped. And within an hour the car did not start. Despite any manipulation. A friend was called as a lifeguard. But literally before his arrival. The car still came to life. The truth is exactly ten minutes. Then felt a noticeable smell of burning. The source could not be established. And we rolled on a tie. After opening and long searches. such a malfunction was discovered. See photo. Where a twist is clearly visible which has already melted the wiring around. We already really burned. At least they tried. From here conclusion. All that you put in the services. All these newfangled pribludy. This only increases the risk of malfunctions and fires. Because everything is done carelessly. To the safety of the car is irrelevant. And add problems.
As it was said, the non-cleaned drainage under the hood leads to the flooding of the entire engine compartment, including the interior. Water flows through the ducts of the stove in a torrential stream to your feet and carpets. And dead electrician salon. First of all, first remove the terminal from the battery and take a plunger (joke) and punch a hole in the drainage. Then we disassemble the threshold from the driver and take out the box out .. Dry mats and wires. And the block itself will look like this. (See photo). As a rule, the terminal is oxidized and plus it just burns out. In the service they will charge you 6 rubles per unit B. used. yes even prescribe it. All you need to do is to dry out and solder the wire to a plus. it is possible to process even to a heap a varnish for contacts. And seal the box block sealant. And collect all this back.
As I said, the main sore leak in the engine oil Audi Volkswagen. This is crankcase ventilation. Rather, its complete obstruction. Excessive pressure of the latter without finding a way out inflates the engine from the inside. Naturally pours oil from all the cracks. The weakest points are glands and gaskets with caps and plugs. if you sit down in the salon you smell the smell of oil. To one hundred percent you have clogged the HCV. Smoke will be at the bottom of the heads from the right and from the left and behind the motor shield in the area of wine. This is where the exhaust manifold and turbines are located. Which plentifully watered with oil from gaskets. The fight against simple replacement of the gasket cover provides a temporary effect. What I had after the repair service. Lilo so that smoke ate. And the level went on the eyes. At the same time, everyone made round eyes and said everything new there. By this I had to climb myself. Those who have a car equipped with a post-combustion crankcase gases. I recommend when removing the head cover. First, unscrew the centering studs. It will be much easier and faster to shoot. And so set even more so. And be sure to plug the turbine air duct. Bolts and nars there dive))) Work is not difficult. But it takes time. Cleaning is not difficult and is done in parallel. For all one to disassemble. bourgeois order release tubes with new ones. But we collective farmers normally clean them with chemistry. The same applies to the valve. Your case can be new and buy.)))). Collected brought. Enjoy the lack of smell of oil in the cabin. I was very lucky with the weather doing this procedure in the pouring rain with a thunderstorm)))
Yes. There is this terrible pneumatic suspension. Which so painfully hits the budget of the owners of the roads of all generations including the series q. people shy away from it like an incense from four. What makes it really great for buyers to buy a really chic car at an opel price. Yes, dear readers. If you offer allroad fallen on the belly. Flashing plaintive light bulbs just in oil. And with dead electronics in the cabin for the price of ford sierra. I highly recommend that you read this opus and take this piece yourself. For it can be brought back to life and not as expensive as the existential avtodok vag and other bad uncles tells you))). I have repeatedly exposed the conspiracy of sellers and manufacturers of spare parts. Here, as in the history of the helico there is a bunch of symbolically vivid examples of this very greed. And for this part, we understand a little))).
Well drove. Allroad, as you know, is the usual a6 Audi Quatro Avant with minor design changes. The main difference from the Avant is the air suspension. This is what makes this machine universal. I note that Audi as in the case of the Quatro system. The first to introduce pneuma in a series of passenger cars. What gave rise to a bunch of followers and imitators in its class. The most famous is the Volvo CX 70 and Subaru Outback.
So, as always, where to look and how to determine the next corpse.
The first is not what you need to pay attention to this body. Traces of blows repairs. Usually, I do not really focus on the bodywork. But in our case, the car is aluminum, which already speaks about the brand and quality, but you can quite often meet this with rotten wings. What does this mean? That did not do it qualitatively from forgive slag. And this slag will come out further. Traces of the curve of repair should not be. Especially it concerns power panels. Allroad is designed to drive and on the country road. The load on the torsion there is large. and the owners in any case will force the beaches, fields and gardens))) so that the fighting friends would gasp from the possibilities of the turbo shed.)) Therefore, look and look again.
Then go to the sweet is the motor. He will be in oil a hundred pounds. And it will pop on peregazovki as your first Opel.))). Inside, there will be a constant burning of oil. And in the trunk there will be a canister for topping up. Do not believe? Open and watch. She is there)))). If she is not there and under the road is dry. That oil in the crankcase is already over. What will the level sensor sing to you? How he pisses me off (he died in me))) not to say it in words. It is worth one and a half pieces but you need to change the oil draining. He is also responsible, by the way, for the temperature of the oil itself. The scale on the left is tidy. If she is alive, then in the chain is open. if there is no sensor died)))
Where does the oil go in this wonderful car? And it disappears mainly in two directions. The first and the most probable. These are valve cover gaskets, plastic inserts and plugs. This is something that flows at all. It does not flow only among those who have recently changed it and at the same time cleaned the system vgk (crankcase ventilation). They cost a couple of droplets 40 € and all these corks are another 25 €. But flattery to change their pleasure is still something. I strongly recommend combining this procedure with the replacement of chains and stars. work on the replacement will cost But then we stop rattling the chains and begin to rustle and smell nice.)))) It remains the turbines. Turbine is not a cheap deal, as the whole post will be lower. But let’s say you’re lucky and they are alive. More and more engine oil does not eat good. Before the drip of the turbine, my oil consumption was about 500 grams per 5 thousand km.
Now go and look electronics. Dreadful word is this electronics. Wires relyushki blocks. Horror. But in our case, if nemchura tried. And for each group of consumers their blocks are responsible. By this, troubleshooting is not difficult. In addition, there are typical well-studied sores. For example, the owner filled my car with water. Drainage that is under the hood was filled with foliage bird nests and I have a suspicion that the mice drove there to frolic. And the whole bath was full until the stove was flooded. And the rapid flow rushed right under his feet. To his misfortune, the clever Germans located in the passenger’s feet the electronics control unit of the passenger compartment. the so-called comfort block. He quickly de-energized and knocked out the hatch of glass light and so on. Blinked while emergency gang))))
Gurus from electricians suffered with this problem for a month. What will be the post below. In the end, when the car still came into my hands. We under the beer and with the help of a file returned the electrician to life. As my friend says. Electronics is the science of contacts. What I was able to repeatedly verify in the future.
On the transmission to tell especially what. A standard set of boxes that audi. They say that the machine they are not successful. But I have a pen. And besides the traditional in my case sticking reverse gear. (contagious from gels). Nothing more I will not write. Check unless you mate. For hero riders loved to burn it. In my case, the pilot burned it regularly. And all complained about the weakness of the node. I believed him of course. Until I saw how he goes. He had two positions on and off. On my ford st for example, the native lives already 160 thousand. And no matter how his wife does not wear out his heels. On audi think the stock will be more Bole.
Well, here we come to the pneuma.
The car has a classic air suspension. Namely racks with pneumatic cylinders. And the control system through sensors and the brain. The whole economy pumps the compressor and distributes the valve block.
The worst thing about it is component prices. The original Strut assembly stands as a cast-iron bridge. rubles 700 € probably for a piece. . Not the original is in discord. Arnot stands were € 200 plus pillows of € 300 each. With prices now canoe for this all approximately. There are options for more restored components. You create your torn cylinder and you are given a restored one. The price was 100 € with an exchange of 150 € without. The essence of the event is simple. You pereprasovayut sleeve on your same air cylinder. The sleeve itself costs from 70 € the rest is work. Now strut assembly. Strut assembly the original is the good old bilstein. Under the original number. The cost is crazy. same arnot This is a universal shock absorber of unknown brand in the glass under the pneuma. Naturally poison balon and the current shock absorber immediately impose despondency of the owner. For the grandmother, he got an adult. As a rule, people drive to the last to kill the compressor. Try miracle means. Filling sealants for tires for crazy money. when I saw it on the specialized forums I thought. Here it is dudes really rise. )))) Without a sucker, life is bad. ))) At the same time on audi forums this is even fixed in the phage. In general, preying on the misfortunes of the monsters become even a good tradition. Criticism is hard and then banned. Well, business is business. But the more we know, the easier it will be for us. Some technical solutions I will try on myself. And maybe we will make something to order for people for normal money. Life will show. For those who saw the allroad on the belly and there is no money to rise yet. Put on the springs. The procedure is not complicated. I will single out a list of spare parts and options with numbers in a separate post. The budget is small in the analysis of the whole set can be bought for 200 €. And then we reach the pneumatic suspension.
Although it seems that everyone knows about diesel for a long time, it’s worthwhile to recall the pros and cons of these engines in comparison with gasoline engines.
So about the pleasant:
Diesel is economical, and diesel fuel is cheaper than gasoline – in fact it is the main and most obvious plus diesel.
Diesel engines have high torque.
Given the nature of the expected operation, the manufacturer usually lays a great resource in diesel engines.
This is where all the joys end. Now about the minuses.
Structurally and partly due to claim 3 of the above, a diesel engine is more expensive than a gasoline engine.
Smaller, relative to the gasoline engine, power.
Despite all the threats and assurances of manufacturers, still an element of “tractor” in the work of modern diesel engines is present.
Usually half the life of engine oil (and this is a point that partially eats the savings from item 1 of the advantages of a diesel engine) plus a relatively expensive fuel filter.
Requires a highly qualified service, even the replacement of the fuel filter is not such an easy operation. Replacing the timing belt and the installation of the injection pump is usually in “garage” conditions as min. difficult.
In the case of major repairs much more expensive.
Diesel fuel evaporates badly and its smell, in the case of even small short-term leaks, is long present in the car.
But the most important thing is not even this. The times when the diesel engine was constructively “1 stick-2 string” and had only 2 serious knots – the fuel pump and injectors successfully sunk into oblivion. A modern diesel engine is a complex engine with a turbo-supercharging system and everything that accompanies it, with a full-fledged electronic engine control system with a usual set of sensors, valves, etc., adjusted for diesel specificity. The demand was reflected in the appearance of lambda probes, catalysts and other exhaust neutralization systems. All this significantly increased the requirements for diesel fuel poured in and created a situation where “traditional” diesel specialists were not ready for such a dramatic change in the situation, and the list of defects expanded dramatically and stopped reducing only to the injectors and fuel pump.
Now actually about the subject – Audi V-shaped turbodiesel volume 2.5.
Appearing in the year 97 (AFB code), in 2000 it underwent a small upgrade (AKE), power increased from 150 to 180 hp. Nevertheless, both of these motors are very similar, so all of the following applies to both types. When developing these engines, the VAG went the old tried and tested way – these are the engines “converted” from gasoline V6. But at the same time, there is no interchangeability with the gasoline “relatives”, with rare exceptions, no.
There is an opinion, which is periodically implemented by various services and craftsmen, that the timing belt and the injection pump can be replaced without any adaptations, you just need to make marks on the gears and put the new belt “as it was”.
However, if such a method somehow “passes” on gasoline engines that are not so critical to the installation, this trick will not work with a diesel engine. Ie most likely the timing belts and the high-pressure pump will be replaced and the engine will even work more or less decently, but statistically all of us known cases of such a replacement led to inaccurate installation and as a result the loss of engine traction to a greater or lesser extent. With significant errors, the motor starts to work either too “hard” or vice versa “softly”. Obviously, you can “miss” as when installing the timing belt and the injection pump belt, with the possibility of “strange” errors. Thus, the widely practiced tolerance of the installation of timing for gasoline engines in the range of +/- “polzub” for a diesel engine is completely unacceptable, for it is possible only one single precise installation, which is practically impossible without special devices. Vkratse, the replacement method is as follows: the crankshaft is fixed rigidly in crankshaft in mt with fixture 3242, camshafts (3458) are rigidly fixed, after which the belt is installed, the belt gears on camshafts tighten and fixed. Next, the injection pump stops, the belt is put and tensioned, and then the drive gear of the injection pump belt tightens. Then there is a complete assembly, after which the engine starts and the injection angle is controlled. If it is not in tolerance, then the upper covers open, the pump drive gear is loosened and adjusted in the right direction, after which, tightening the gear, we check the injection angle again. The operation may be repeated several times until the correct values are reached. Reducing the number of interactions comes with experience. Also, if you often loosen the gear pump, as a result, it may be necessary to replace the gear p \ shaft due to wear of the threads for the bolts.
If, however, the angle is not corrected, and the angle does not correspond to the tolerance, the traction characteristics of the motor usually deteriorate and various starting problems arise, including motor failure. The deviation of the angle from the norm is usually characteristic of “lived” moto
Equally, this applies to 4c. a diesel engine, with the only difference that it has only one cylinder head and opportunities to miss with a smaller installation, however, a special device for installing the injection pump (injection angle) is still needed.
The most serious defect and problem of this diesel engine was the wear of the timing system – p \ shafts, rockers, hydraulic compensators, etc.
The defect, or rather its final manifestation, is expressed in the “disconnection” of the cylinders. At the same time, the motor doesn’t “warn” in any way the impending problem. Assess the degree of wear can only remove the valve covers. In case of critical wear, washers fall out or the hydraulic compensator collapses and the valve stops opening. As soon as the 2 valves on the cylinder stop opening, it turns off and the engine starts to troit. There are cases of almost simultaneous shutdown of even 3 cylinders. It does not bear destructive consequences for the motor, but it is obvious that repair is required immediately. It is rather difficult to call exact running numbers, moreover, the mode of operation and compliance with the regulations are more important, or rather, its non-observance in the direction of reducing the time for oil replacement.
The spare parts kit includes 4 camshafts, 24 rockers, 24 washers, 24 lifters and a mass of related parts. As a rule, the entire timing belt changes with all the rollers and pump. It is obvious that the total cost of repairs is high, both in terms of the cost of spare parts and in terms of work. It is worth noting that the pump, like the petrol V6, is the most loaded unit in the timing belt drive, and its replacement is obligatory when changing the belt, and given the extremely serious consequences for the engine from its jamming, it is not worth saving and it is recommended to use only the original. It will not be superfluous to remind you that when the timing belt is cut off / cut off, the cylinder head and pistons are usually destroyed, and in severe cases the whole engine can go to a landfill. Replacing the pump in the event of a leak is similar in cost to replacing the belt. The remaining parts of the timing drive (rollers, belts) are available to non-original and they can be used. The complete set for such a replacement includes 6 rollers, a pump and 4 belts (the State Russian Museum, the high pressure pump and 2 multi-ribbed ones).
Cylinder wear also takes place, however, even with noticeable wear (already “visible” by compression), the engine does not consume oil and continues to operate normally. However, when the wear reaches critical values, a substantial engine vibration may appear, while the oil consumption and traction characteristics remain normal.
It is possible to reduce wear in only one way – forget about the recommendation of the VAG to apply long-life oil and change it once in 15,000 km and return to the usual, “diesel” replacement rate every 7-8 ton. However, for bu cars with unclear mileage, the mode of service by previous owners is very relevant, and, as stated above, you can be sure of the timing condition by only removing at least one valve cover.
Possible failures also include failure of the “brains” of the fuel pump (can be replaced separately, supplied according to Bosch), when they fail, the motor can start to “fool” and can (but not always) give an error to the brain of the injection pump. Sometimes “strange” errors appear first. But more often the motor simply or stalls on the move and no longer starts, or there is no start after parking. In these cases, the ECU usually fixes an error on the pump. In the original, the pump is supplied only as an assembly, but the “restored with the delivery of the old” version, the so-called X-ray, is relatively inexpensive.
Nozzles are very reliable and last a long time. As usual, when worn they can change sprayers.
The turbine fails in the “traditional” order – the boost may disappear, strong oil smoke may appear. Nevertheless, this site is reliable enough, and its replacement is not so difficult, since it is one and access is good. But the cost, like any turbine, is high. Also, like any turbo engine, hose breaks through the air line are possible, but the problem is not as urgent as on gasoline engines – firstly the temperature under the engine hood is noticeably less and the rubber “lives” longer, secondly the boost pressure is low and therefore the hoses no such load.
The thermostat is one of the few parts that is the same with the petrol V6 and the symptoms of its failure are similar – long warming up, cooling of the engine when driving on the highway. Standard parts also include glands.
The balance shaft installed in the crankcase is driven by a chain along with an oil pump; its assembly requires installation according to the mark.
The problem of spare parts for this engine, even in Moscow, is quite relevant – consumables (timing, part of the gaskets) are usually in stores, but everything else is usually only on order.